A Landscape That Earns Its Reputation

The island formed from a mountain peak drowned by the sea, creating steep ridges and deep bays that plunge into the Tasman. At its highest, Attempt Hill rises 726 metres, known in Māori as Wetekia. From its summit you look west across open ocean toward the rough coast, and east into the delicate branching channels of the Marlborough Sounds. Port Hardy and Greville Harbour face the wild west coast, while the sheltered inner bays offer calmer waters for kayaking.↗↗

The island is part farmland, part regenerating native bush, a working landscape shaped by two centuries of human history. Ngāti Kuia and Ngāti Koata whakapapa are woven through place names on the Cook Strait side, and argillite quarries here supplied stone for tools found at sites throughout both of New Zealand's main islands. In 1840, missionary Henry Williams gathered thirteen signatures to the Treaty of Waitangi on D'Urville, one of the earliest signings outside Northland.↗

Getting There and Around

Access is by water taxi or chartered boat from the small settlement of French Pass (also called Anaru) at the end of a dramatic 37-kilometre road from Ōkiwi Bay. The drive itself is an event: you wind through plantation forests and past Croisilles Harbour before arriving at the narrow 100-metre channel where tidal flows can reach eight knots. D'Urville called these waters seething sheets with whirlpools of incredible violence and recommended no one attempt them except in an emergency. Modern water taxis make the crossing routine, but the current still churns visibly.↗↗

Once on the island, unsealed roads are suitable for mountain bikes, and there is limited accommodation for multi-day stays. The island sits roughly fifteen minutes by boat from French Pass, and the drive from Nelson or Blenheim to the ferry point takes about two hours, making it feasible as a day trip for hikers or a base for a longer immersion.↗

Wildlife and Walking

The island's possum-free status has made it a refuge for species struggling elsewhere. The critically endangered long-tailed bat, weighing about as much as an AAA battery, has found a vital sanctuary here, along with the world's rarest shag, the king shag. Driftwood Eco Tours runs five-day guided expeditions to the island that include guided walks through ancient forest and multi-day sea kayaking along the coast.↗↗

For independent visitors, hikes through native bush offer sweeping views and the constant soundtrack of birdsong. Paddling a kayak around the coast reveals sea caves, nesting seals, and frequent dolphin encounters. Fishing is generally productive, and diving opportunities exist for those who bring their own gear or join a charter.↗

Stories from Four Generations

The D'Urville Island Water Taxi's heritage tours are led by fourth-generation island families who share local legends, historical sites, and an intimate knowledge of the island's cultural significance. These tours weave together the French explorer's near-disaster, the Māori navigation stories of Kupe, the early farming settlements, and the ongoing conservation work that protects species like the long-tailed bat from stoat predation.↗