Ohrid · MK

Church of the Virgin Mary of the Front Gate (Čelnička)

High in the old quarter of Ohrid, where the medieval city wall still runs along the hillside, the Church of the Virgin Mary of the Front Gate—known locally simply as Čelnička—keeps one of the town's quietest and most unusual secrets. Unlike the grand lakeside basilicas that most visitors find first, this small stone church is easy to walk past: it hides down a side lane, leans against the old ramparts, and marks the spot where one of the three historic gates once let travellers into the town. Its name explains everything. Čelnička takes its epithet from the "front" or head gate of the medieval city, remains of which were uncovered beside the church. The building that grew up around that gateway is, architecturally, a one-off: a double-naved church, a layout so rare in North Macedonia that this is generally regarded as the only example of its kind in the country.