The Way of the Cross

The chapel is the fourteenth and final station of La Désirade's chemin de croix, a route walked in solemn procession each Easter and Good Friday. Large white numbered crosses line the steep, winding path from the harbour town of Beauséjour upward through the hillside, guiding the faithful step by step to the summit. The islanders joke that the name is well earned: the slope is punishing, the sun unrelenting. Some pilgrims still complete the climb barefoot, an act of humility said to echo the experience of the lepers once exiled here.↗↗↗

In past centuries, sailors rounding Pointe des Châteaux on Grande-Terre used the chapel's blue-tiled roof as a maritime landmark. A cross on the terrace doubles as a makeshift sundial, its shadow sweeping across the stone to mark the hours of prayer.↗

The Panorama

This is what makes the effort worthwhile, and what places the chapel among the finest viewpoints in all of Guadeloupe. At 200 metres above the sea, the eye takes in the southern coast of La Désirade and the village of Beauséjour below, the turquoise shallows of the littoral, and an archipelago catalogue spread across the horizon: the islets of Petite-Terre almost within reach, the northern shore of Grande-Terre, and on clear days the volcanic silhouette of Basse-Terre far to the west. An orientation table helps identify every point, and a viewing telescope invites closer inspection of the neighbouring coasts. It is the single best place to grasp, at one glance, La Désirade's lonely sentinel position at the edge of the Caribbean.↗↗↗

Getting There and Beyond

The simplest access is by car or scooter along the narrow, winding road that switchbacks up from Beauséjour. Cyclists willing to suffer the gradient can ride it; four-wheel-drives allow you to continue on to the ridge path and the Grande Montagne plateau, where no houses stand and the landscape is raw and open. For hikers, the chapel is also the end point of the cross-island traverse that begins at Baie-Mahault on the western shore and crests the plateau — a natural way to pair the island's two great highland experiences in a single outing.↗↗

Visiting Tips

Climb early in the morning or late afternoon for softer light, gentler heat, and a calmer experience at this still-active place of worship. Bring water, sun protection, and proper shoes if you walk the stations — the path is steep and can be stony. Respect the chapel's devotional character: modest dress and a quiet demeanour are appreciated. Combine the visit with the parish church of Notre-Dame-du-Bon-Secours in Beauséjour below (the two form the town's spiritual pair), the shell-adorned marine cemetery, the Souffleur beach for snorkelling afterwards, and the Pointe Doublé lighthouse at the island's far eastern tip.↗↗

La Désirade is reached by ferry from Saint-François on Grande-Terre, a crossing of roughly 15–20 minutes; the chapel sits just a short drive or uphill walk from the landing at Beauséjour.↗