Upper Lake

A Hidden Corner of the Indian Peaks

The Indian Peaks Wilderness south of Rocky Mountain National Park draws thousands of hikers each summer to headline destinations like the Lone Eagle Cirque, Navajo Peak, and Emerald Lake. Upper Lake lives in their shadow — a few tenths of a mile beyond the end of the official trail, accessible only by following informal paths along a steep shoreline. The result is a place that feels discovered rather than visited, where weekday campers may be the only human presence for miles.↗

What makes the setting special is the geology. Hell Canyon wraps around the base of Hiamovi Tower, a striking rock buttress that looms over both Stone Lake and Upper Lake. Staring across the water from the eastern shore, the tower's sheer face commands attention in a way that few other lakes in this corner of the Rockies can match. Marten Peak and Cooper Peak close the other side of the canyon, creating a rugged amphitheater.↗

Getting There

The Roaring Fork Trailhead near Arapaho Bay Campground is the starting point, accessed via a roughly 10-mile drive on Colorado 6 (also known as Arapaho Bay Road or Forest Service Road 125), a dirt road that branches from US 34 at the southeastern corner of Lake Granby. The road is passable by most vehicles but slow.↗

From the trailhead, the hike climbs steeply out of the Lake Granby basin on exposed terrain — sunscreen is essential. After crossing and recrossing the Roaring Fork stream through pleasant forest, a junction at about 2.7 miles calls for a right turn and the biggest climb of the day: roughly 1,400 feet of gain over 1.4 miles. The trail crests on the shoulder of Mount Irving Hale, opening to spectacular meadows with sweeping views of the western Indian Peaks.↗

Beyond the Irving Hale meadows the trail drops steeply into Hell Canyon itself, following the north-side slopes past rock outcroppings and through unnamed ponds before reaching the canyon floor. Stone Lake appears first, with Upper Lake just beyond. Total round-trip distance is approximately 12 miles, classified as difficult due to both the distance and the sustained elevation change.↗

What to Expect at the Lake

Upper Lake is smaller than its lower sibling and has no official trail leading directly to it. Hikers piece together a route along social trails and game paths for a short distance after leaving the defined path at Stone Lake. The lake's southern shore is where most arrivals first encounter the water.↗

On the eastern side, a clump of trees and a relatively flat bench offer potential camping spots, though deadfall and snags require checking before setting up. The water between the two lakes is connected by a channel that flows past a large singular boulder — at one point the depth is enough for a jump or a swim on warm days.↗

The overall atmosphere is one of understated beauty. This isn't a jaw-dropping postcard like the Maroon Bells, but the combination of alpine lake, rock towers, and canyon walls creates a setting that rewards slow afternoons and starlit evenings. The Continental Divide blocks most light pollution from the Front Range, making the night sky particularly spectacular.↗

Camping and Multi-Day Trips

Upper Lake is best appreciated as an overnight or multi-day destination. Campsites exist along both Stone Lake and Upper Lake shores, and additional spots scatter the area between them. The Indian Peaks Wilderness is popular overall, but this corner sees far less traffic than the Lone Eagle or Neva areas, so weekday and shoulder-season camping tends to be blessedly quiet.↗

The hike from the Roaring Fork Trailhead to the lakes also connects as part of a backcountry loop to Gourd Lake, a route that has grown in popularity with Grand County residents and wilderness anglers. Early September is particularly ideal for camping: summer crowds thin, daytime temperatures still permit comfortable swimming, and nights are cool enough to enjoy camp blankets under brilliant stars.↗

Day Hiking and Side Objectives

For those who stop at Stone Lake and press on to Upper Lake as the day's main objective, the 12-mile round trip is challenging but achievable with good fitness and an early start. Rounding Upper Lake to its east side is strongly recommended even for those who don't go far — that angle places Hiamovi Tower directly across the water for the most dramatic view.↗

The area around the lakes offers additional day objectives for fit hikers: scrambling up toward Ogallala Peak, Cooper Peak, or the Class 3 summit of Marten Peak. A route north from Upper Lake leads to a saddle between Hiamovi and Ooh-La-La Peak, from which Paradise Park — a pristine, trailless wilderness study area — is visible.↗

Practical Tips for Visiting

Check current weather carefully before departing. The best local forecast for this area comes from the Sawtooth Mountain weather station, though storm timing and positioning may differ from predictions since it sits two basins away. Snow can linger on the trail through the first half of June.↗

Campground and backcountry reservations can be made through recreation.gov; booking early in March when seasonal reservations open gives the best chance at weekend sites. Heed all active fire bans — devastating fires like East Troublesome and Cameron Peak have reshaped this landscape and underscore how vulnerable it remains.↗

The initial climb out of the Lake Granby basin is exposed with limited shade, so carry more water than expected and protect against sun. Trekking poles help on the steep descent into Hell Canyon, particularly when carrying a loaded pack.↗

There are no facilities at either lake. Leave no trace principles apply fully in the Indian Peaks Wilderness — pack out everything, respect campsites, and keep noise low in an environment chosen specifically for its quiet.↗